Early, well, okay not so early, on Saturday morning we set off in our "We're not the jet set" huge white mini bus with our Chilean friend, Carolina. First stop, San Bernardo to pick up Melinda, John and Amelie. Next stop, breakfast at a great little place along the highway,
(I can't remember the name of it, but just look for this huge statue), for some of the best pan amasado I've had in Chile. That, with a hard-boiled egg and a cup of tea was the perfect road-trip breakfast. Next stop, Portillo, the Chilean ski resort that you saw at the top of this blog post. It was beautiful in its solitary majesty this morning. But in a couple more months when the mountains are all blanketed in snow and the lake is frozen over, it will be swarming with skiiers, skaters, and snowboarders.
Last stop before Argentina, the border, where we sat for five whole hours, inching our way toward the customs officials. Apparently, that's what happens when you travel from Santiago to Mendoza on a long weekend. Happy to finally be in Argentina, we went buzzing right past Aconcagua, the hemisphere's highest mountain, not even knowing what we were missing. Not to worry though, we caught up with it two days later on the way back. Aconcagua is an indigenous Quechua word which means "Stone Guardian". At an altitude of almost 7,000 meters, the highest mountain outside of the Himalayas, it is quite an impressive guardian of the landscape. One of the huge glaciers we could see was the "Glaciar superior" which is 300 meters thick. I would have liked to hike a little nearer to it, but we definitely weren't dressed for the lower temperatures up there. Also, we were all experiencing a strange symtom of the high altitudes we were at: swollen teeth. I had never heard of this before, but I assure you it is most uncomfortable.
Mendoza is a beautiful city, and it felt good to be out of Santiago again and breathe in some fresh air. We wandered the tree-lined streets, ate at an outdoor cafe and walked around Cerro La Gloria. Sunday was Bill and my 17th anniversary, and we celebrated that evening, first with a fierce game of Scattergories in the cabin. Then John, Melinda, and Carolina stayed behind with the kids while Bill and I went to a tango bar. Even though we certainly don't tango (remember, Bill and I are challenged with the Hokey Pokey), it was so awesome just to watch the couples in this sensuous dance. I remember a Chilean woman was once comparing the lovely Argentinian tango to her country's cueca ("which is simply a cock chasing a hen around"). At times everyone was out on the dance floor and then the dancers would take a break and we'd watch while a professional pair of dancers would mesmerize us all. Bill and I sat at a table with a couple from Viña del Mar and a delightful woman from Mendoza, Vivi, who was there celebrating her birthday with a friend. What a great anniversary celebration we had!
*****
On Monday, we went and visited a nearby vineyard, Chandón, which makes espumante. Espumante is like champagne, but since it's not made from grapes grown in that region of France, they can't use the name. Still, I would think they could have come up with something sexier than espumante. Anyway, it tasted very good, and prices for everything are so much better in Argentina than in Chile, so I bought several bottles to bring to our big Fulbright reunion at Los Andes cabins toward the end of May.
We were up and out of the cabin extra early on Tuesday morning, hoping to beat the crowd at the border. Bill drove the first hour in darkness, and the sun was just beginning to rise as we got into the mountains, and what a glorious sunrise that was.
Click here for more photos from our weekend in Mendoza:
http://picasaweb.google.com/bdoody61/Mendoza
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