How's Bill holding up?

Some of you have been asking how Bill has been doing this year in Chile. Sometimes the question seems filled with apprehension (the poor guy, so far from home, not speaking the language, is he doing allright?) Well, rest assured, Bill is doing just great! It's been a party ever since the day that he and the girls arrived on September 18th, the Chilean independence day celebrations, las Fiestas Patrias. This is celebrated a lot like the fourth of July except that it lasts for several days. Then, let's see, backtracking through the Andes: a couple of weeks later we went skiing on one of the last days of the ski season. Next we went mountain biking in the Elqui Valley. We had also been on several horseback rides through beautiful country in the south. There were quite a few bird-watching expeditions, including one to La Campana National Park, just outside of Santiago, where Bill saw a giant Andean hummingbird which came buzzing right up to him. And, of course, there's all the fun stuff we did this past summer that I've already written about in this blog.

He's been to see two really good concerts, one of which was Roger Waters in the National Stadium. We had both wanted to go, but the tickets were a little expensive and it was on a week night. I, of course, had to get up early the next morning to go teach. Bill has the luxury of going back to bed if he likes after getting the girls and I off to school. Anyway, we didn't get tickets, but the night of the concert Bill took a different route on his usual evening jog and ran over by the stadium, thinking he'd hear some of the concert while running around the building. Well, as luck would have it there was a guy out there selling tickets for a really great price, so Bill got to see the show after all. Back at home, not far from the stadium, I thought I could hear him singing, "Wish Sue Were Here"! Then, last week, he went to see Jethro Tull in a small, intimate venue with our friend John.

He's been working pretty hard on his Spanish. Though the girls and I laugh and roll our eyes at his accent, he's actually quite good at carrying on conversations with people. For a while in November and December he was teaching private English classes to some Fulbright doctoral candidates hoping to be studying in the U.S. next year. He has become good friends with one of them, Giancarlo, and they still meet and converse, sometimes in English and sometimes in Spanish.

Bill can often be found in the kitchen, doing one of his favorite activities: cooking amazing meals, mostly vegetarian, for his family and any of my colleagues I happen to bring home with me. He always makes so much, I don't even call ahead to tell him, we just show up at the door. Everyone at work marvels about what a great chef Bill is. Here you can see him at work in the kitchen: http://picasaweb.google.com/bdoody61/KitchenSongs/photo#5068315271536131058

Sometimes Bill will meet a friend for lunch, and then the girls and I have to fend for ourselves. The girls are actually very good cooks, unlike their mother, but by the time we all get home from school at three o'clock, we're hungry and want to eat right away. In Chile, the main meal of the day is lunch, and it's usually eaten sometime between one and three o'oclock. Once, Bill had the audacity to go and leave us for five whole days. While we were surviving, barely, on week-old leftovers from the fridge, Bill was enjoying an amazing trip to the southern tip of the continent. I'm going to let him tell you about it:

The first thing I noticed when I arrived in Punta Arenas was the wind. It seems to be almost visible as it forces all to bow to its mighty presence. The mountainous landscape is also very impressive. This looks to me like the area where the soft smooth Coastal range and the hard stark Andes come together, mingle for a time and then queue up in separate lines to make their journey north.

My traveling partner, John, and I made our way by bus to base camp in Puerto Natales. We were met by our hotel owner, Miguel, an accomodating man of Croation descent who drove us to the Southwinds Hotel and got us set up with our room. Beset with hunger, we made our way to the Pizza restaurant called Mesquite Grande. John had been down with his family earlier in the summer and had said this was the best pizza in Chile, and I do say I have to agree. They serve an awesome selection of brick-oven pizzas similar to the California Pizza Kitchen back home. This place quickly became my favorite dining place for the trip. After filling our gullets we made plans for the next day.

The next day the rain let up and we were greeted by the bright rising sun. Even in the crisp morning air you can feel the effects of the hole in the ozone layer as the powerful rays of light beat down on you. And those winds.... Well lets just say they turned it up another notch from the day before. This morning we were headed on a tour to Argentina and the famous Perito Moreno Glacier.

We arrived at the border of Argentina and were greeted by a runaway Chilean sheep and winds that nearly blew us over. We had registered for the trip as Chileans, so they would not accept my Estados Unidos passport at the border, and I was kind of bummed that the guard wouldn't stamp my passport. But they got a good laugh out of the fact that this Chilean could not speak Spanish too well. I was just glad I didn't get locked up with that illegal alien sheep.


We also had a brief stopover and a break from the winds in El Calafate, Agrentina's fastest-growing city. It is situated in a valley next to Laguna Nimez ( the largest lake in Argentina). Unfortunately we didn't have time to explore this peaceful place but I would love to come back.

Next it was off to Parque los Glaciers and the breathtaking Perito Moreno Glacier. Upon arriving at this beautiful park I was again reminded why I so dislike bus tours. Everywhere we looked there seemed to be another photo op. There were condors flying above, and rainbows appearing out of nowhere, but on a bus there is always a schedule to keep. Fortunately for us, though, we were going to be stopping at the highlight of the park: the majestic Perito Moreno Glacier.



This giant river of ice is one of the few glaciers in the world that is still expanding. It loses two meters a day but gains six. It also boasts a five-km wide face . We boarded our boat to view the glacier to close up and were treated to three nice ice drops. The last one created a mini tsunami right in front of us. Our skipper quickly maneuvered the boat around to take the ten-foot wave head on. I'm glad I got the big splash on camera. For more pictures of the Glacier check out these pics: http://picasaweb.google.com/bdoody61/Glaciers

The next morning I bid my traveling partner good-bye. John had to get back to work the next day. After leaving the bus station I noticed I had a little problem. There I was, all alone, with no plans for the day. I started thinking what a waste of time this is, to be in this amazing part of the world with nothing to do. I've got to do something. I kept thinking I should rent a car and drive into the mountains. The more I thought, the more nervous and anxious I became. Then, all of a sudden, I realized what the problem was. I was thinking again. So, following in the footsteps of another great American (Forrest Gump), I picked up my backpack and started walking. The winds were gone on this serene morning so I walked to the bay, did some journaling and had a great quiet time. I continued walking around most of this beautiful city and had one of the most peaceful days of my trip. Our friends John and Melinda have both commented on how they would have loved to do a Fulbright in Puerto Natales and I fully agree. Here are a few pics of the town. http://picasaweb.google.com/bdoody61/PuertoNatales

Next came decison time. Should I continue on with my peace and solitude or accept the lunch offer of my gracious hotel owner Miguel. He knew I was alone and wanted company so he asked me to lunch with him and Miguel Jr. I was feeling a little apprehensive with my interpreter John gone and knowing that neither Sr. nor Jr. spoke a bit of English. I sat on the decision and soon the thought came to me that I should get out of myself, so it was off to lunch.

Thank God that sometimes I actually do listen to that inner voice because we had an awesome lunch. And it wasn't just the great meal of salmon a la pobre (salmon topped with grilled onions and two sunnyside up huevos). We actually had a wonderful conversation. I was even able to get across some obscure stories; like how the gangsters in Chicago always used to sit with their backs to the wall so as not to be easy targets for their enemies. They just loved that story.


The next morning I met up with my guide, Marcos, whom I immediately dubbed the mayor of Puerto Natales because of his popularity with all the locals. We rented a car and headed for the park, Torres del Paine.

Well, what can you say except that it is everything that has been written about it and more. That "more" is the description that words are too small to wrap themselves around. Along with the breathtaking views, precious flora and fauna, and crystal clear waters we drank from, there was a deep sense of spiritual wonder.

One day is not nearly enough to breathe in this amazing experience. But I highly doubt that one week, one month or one lifetime is enough either. http://picasaweb.google.com/bdoody61/ToresDelPaine

"You will often meet with characters in nature so extravagant that a discreet poet would not venture to set them upon a stage."
-Lord Chesterfield

Amelie's First Birthday!

Hard to believe that little Amelie is now a one year-old. I still remember seeing her for the first time, wrapped snuggly in her mother's sling as we stood in line at the airport in Atlanta waiting to board the plane headed for Chile. That was nine months ago. We didn't know each other then; we didn't know we were headed for the same place, on the Fulbright Teacher Exchange Program. I remember looking nostalgically at that mother and baby, thinking of myself thirteen years ago. Who would have guessed that soon our families would become very good friends. In fact, now, my daughters feel like Amelie's big sisters and just can't see enough of her. Amelie is an adorable and incredibly fun baby to be around, it's true. In fact, I have on several occasions offered a two-for-one trade to John and Melinda: one beautiful baby girl in exchange for two sometimes sweet, sometimes sassy pre-teen girls.

So we agreed to have Amelie's first birthday party here at our apartment complex on Saturday night because we have this nice sala de eventos. Next to this big party room is the large grill and picnic table area where we have had parties before. We figured if it were still nice out, we could sit outside and enjoy the crisp, fall air and if it got too cold, we could go inside to the party room. Everything was all set: Melinda, party-planner extraordinaire, already had made and sent the invitations to thirty-some guests, the animal-themed decorations were made, the menu was set and started, cakes baked and decorated, etc. Several of the Fulbright teachers were coming in to Santiago from all around Chile for the big event. A Spanish-teacher friend of Melinda's had even made the trip all the way from Boston. Everything was ready to go, but then the plans began to unravel. . .

Walking home from a visit to our park on Friday evening, the night before the party, the conserje stopped us as we entered the gate. He told us we could not get the key to use the party room the next day without paying $166 to clear an old debt from the previous owner of the apartment. At this time we were informed that we would also need to pay a $100 deposit to use that room. When we reserved the room about six weeks before, we were not told any of this. All we were told was that it would cost $20 for the use of the sala de eventos. So, basically, we were now being told that to use the room we would need to cough up almost $300 on the spot. Up until this point we had enjoyed a very good relationship with most, if not all, of the conserjes from this complex. It seemed rather unjust to extort this money from us in this manner.

The strange story of our apartment is a long one, but here is the shortened version. I rented this apartment from a woman named Carmen, who gave me a six-month contract because she did not know what would be happening with the apartment after that. She knew she would be losing the apartment in a remate (I didn't know what that was at the time, but have since found out is an auction as a result of foreclosure) but she didn't know exactly when that would happen. In December three people appeared at my door: a man, his wife, and their lawyer. The man came with copies of legal papers, claiming that he was now the owner of the apartment and that I should not pay Carmen any more money. He left, having assured me I could continue to live in the apartment tranquilamente, but he did not have a contract for me to look over, nor did we discuss the new rent amount. I had rented a furnished apartment, but the furnishings were Carmen's, not his. When rent came due again in January I contacted Carmen about the situation and she insisted the apartment was still hers at that point. I called the "new owner" back and when I told him this he screamed so loudly into the phone that I had to hang up before serious ear injury resulted. I told them both I would pay when they decided who was the actual owner.

I finally resolved the mystery by going to a government office where they have updated copies of all property titles. It turned out Carmen had still been the owner until mid-January, so with the security deposit we had paid up front, she was actually overpaid by about two weeks. The new owner, shown to be some company, did not actually take possesion of the apartment until February 5th. I have no idea who those three people who came to the apartment really were, but we have heard no word from any new landlord since. Hence, we have had no one asking for rent money now for several months (and also no one to call to have a new water heater put in. The one we have is leaking in the kitchen and a warm shower has become an unpredictable event).

It turned out there were outstanding debts on the utilities and on the gastos comunes (like condo association fees) when we moved in to this apartment, and it was the gastos comunes that they were trying to get us to pay in order to use the party room, even though that was a bill incurred before we ever moved in. After talking to the conserje I went upstairs to call Melinda and tell her the bad news. She didn't mind, in fact she said that was just as well, we really didn't need the big party room because most of the family (John's Chilean exchange partner's family) had just called her to say they weren't going to be able to make it to the party. So we decided to proceed with the party the next day in our rather small apartment.

Our Fulbright friends starting arriving, and Amelie was in a great mood, thoroughly enjoying her big day. I remember the doorbell kept ringing, announcing that some guests had arrived downstairs, and we would buzz them up. The apartment was getting more and more crowded until it was about twenty-five people over capacity. Everyone who had been invited had arrived, even those who had called the night before to say they wouldn't be able to make it! Luckily, Melinda always makes plenty of food for her parties. We quickly ran out of chairs but there was no way we were going to run out of delicious food! There were people eating at a makeshift table out on the balcony, the kids were sprawled out on the floor, there were people in the hallway, and even some eating in the spare bedroom!

After everyone was done with dinner, we moved the party, cake and presents out to the park behind us. It was a beautiful evening in the park, and everyone had a great time celebrating Amelie.

A Vendimia Celebration

We enjoyed a beautiful Saturday in late March, one of the last really warm days of the fall, in the town of Curicó, about a two-hour train ride from Santiago. This was the second time I had taken the train here in Chile, and both times it was a very pleasant experience. The train is clean and punctual, and la Estación Central in Santiago, designed by Gustave Eiffel and opened in 1897, is quite impressive. The beauty of its wrought-iron roof, open-air outdoor feel and palm trees gently swaying give the traveler a great send-off. This is now the only train station in Santiago, where all trains leave the capital for the south. There are no trains that head north any more. There used to be another train station in Santiago, the Mapocho Station, where trains departed for Valparaíso on the coast to the northwest. That station was closed many years ago and is now a cultural center. So on Saturday morning at the Estación Central, we met John, Melinda and Amelie, and our train pulled away at 9:30 am sharp.

We had a fun train ride, the girls happily playing with Amelie. Once in Curicó, it wasn't hard to find all the action. We walked the six blocks or so from the train station to the city's central plaza, a very pretty one with fountain, statues and plenty of palm trees. The plaza was buzzing with music and dancing (cueca, of course), and food vendors grilling meat for anticuchos (shish kabob). And, of course, the wine vendors. All of the nearby vineyards had a booth in the plaza, so you purchase a wine glass and sample lots of great wines. One of the highlights of the vendimia is the grape-mashing contest. Up on the stage are three large barrels, and teams of four compete to see who can make the most grape juice by stomping around in the barrel with their bare feet. While two guys stomp away, another keeps filling the barrel with grapes and the last one opens the spigot in the barrel from time to time to fill a pitcher and then dump that juice into a giant vat.












We had a great day, enjoying all the music and the dancing. In September, for the Fiestas Patrias, we first saw everyone dancing the cueca. After so many months living here, seeing the cueca danced again, with all those pañuelos twirling, was quite inspiring. It made me feel, well, Chilean! We would love to return to the wine festival again next year and stomp on those grapes ourselves and maybe even dance the cueca in the street.

I'm not so sure Sarah would want to return, though. She had an unfortunate incident while we were walking back to the train station that night. We were crossing an intersection when suddenly we heard a scream and turned to see a child laying in the street. It took us a moment to realize it was Sarah; she had just been knocked down by a drunk driver, luckily the driver of a bike, not a car. She got up, very shaken, but just skinned up a bit. John, however, was not as fortunate. Though in his case there was no driver of the vehicle, and he was the one who had had a little too much wine. I think John may very well be back next year for a chance to stomp on those grapes!

Here are some photos from our day at the vendimia:
http://picasaweb.google.com/bdoody61/Vendimia